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| The Art of the Digitizer: How Brands are Handled in the Uniform Industry |
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| Written by Jackie Rosselli | |||
| Friday, 03 April 2009 18:58 | |||
 Embroidery isn't new – it has been around since early Egyptian days, – nor is its purpose particularly innovative. Then as now, garments are embroidered to influence perception. Embroidered clothing makes a statement, telling us something about the wearer as well as the persons with whom he comes in contact. Just as the art of stitching and assembling pieces of fabric together is the backbone of the textile industry, so too, is embroidery the heart of the uniform industry. Used to enhance the image of workers in diverse occupational settings, it is an indispensable tool used by businesses to strengthen their brand and drive sales, important considerations as the battle for customers heats up across the country. While the reasons for using embroidery haven't changed, the techniques and technology surrounding it have. Embroidery has come a long way from the days when patterns were sewn by hand; today, most designs are created digitally, with sophisticated machinery and software that can run tens of thousands of dollars. The role of the employees charged with adorning the garments has evolved too. No longer mere technicians, they are often referred to as professional digitizers or "thread artists." Their work can either make or break a uniform program, determining whether a brand will stand out or get lost in a sea of competition. How are logos and brands handled in the industry? What technology is involved in today's embroidered uniform designs? What are the must-have skills that all professional digitizers should possess? Who owns the finished concept? We'll take a behind-the-scenes look at the impact embroidery has in today's uniform marketplace. Embroidery Then… First, a quick primer: Embroidery is the process of decorating an item by sewing a design onto it in color thread. In general, color doesn't affect price; the amount of stitches required does. The higher the stitch count, the greater the cost. On average, embroidery adds 10-15 percent to the cost of a garment. The process differs from screen printing, which prints a design in ink, one color at a time, through a tight silk mesh. "Embroidery provides texture and enables you to create different stitch patterns; the process can be completely automated or more labor intensive, depending on the preference of the digitizer," notes professional digitizer Nancy Asberry of Alabama's At Work Uniforms. At Work represents more than 160 manufacturers, designs and manufacturers custom career apparel domestically, and sources internationally. Its services include embroidery, custom emblems, screen printing and private labeling Previously, embroidered designs were widely created using digitizing tablets, a device that allows one to hand-draw images and graphics, similar to the way one draws images with a pencil and paper. …And Now  With the evolution of digital technology, designs are now created on a computer with a program that was designed to generate stitches. Once the stitches are generated, the design is saved in a format that the embroidery machine can "read." The design is loaded, and the thread colors are programmed into the machine in the sequence that they will sew. Artwork comes from the customer, often in the form of a jpeg or bitmap. Once the design is completed, At Work Uniforms mails the customer a sew-out, or sample, for approval. The sew-out is trimmed and placed inside a cardboard carrier that contains a window for easy viewing. Information about the design is also included, allowing the customer an easy sign-off option that expedites the order. Keeping it Simple A skillful digitizing artist uses embroidery digitizing software to achieve the customer's desired look, but Asberry notes the results can vary. "The same logo can be interpreted in different ways by different professionals, resulting in different looks," she says. That makes digitizing both a technical and a creative process. But while creativity is coveted in the fashion and entertainment worlds, the uniform marketplace is decidedly more staid and straightforward. "They really want you to stay true to the artwork, to take a classic approach," says Asberry. This method works well for the industry, according to Asberry. "The Nike logo is an example of how corporate logos remain pretty basic. For that market and others like it, the simpler you keep it, the better. The image is very recognizable and stands out in the public's mind." Whether traditional or snazzy, however, the final product is owned by the company, not the digitizer, although he or she can retain possession of the actual file. A Trend toward Embroidery  While you'll find embroidered garments across the uniform spectrum, generally speaking, the more corporate or image conscious a business is, the more likely it will favor embroidery over screen printing. "Embroidered garments have a richer look, and give the wearer a better image," says Asberry. By contrast, screen printing is still favored on inexpensive items like t-shirts, and is frequently used by businesses with a high turnover rate. In recent years, however, even these companies are trending away from the process. "Many of the lawn care companies now require their employees to wear embroidered polo shirts," notes Asberry. While less comfortable than a t-shirt, the switch may be a reaction to increased competition and a correlating need to look professional. And in casinos and hotels, the need to be regarded as secure has ushered in a return to the so-called "hard" security look, complete with highly visible embroidered logos. While many digitizers sew – Asberry began her career as a professional seamstress – the skill is not considered a job requirement. Today's thread artists must be computer literate, proficient in the various software packages for the industry, and must know how to use an embroidery machine. Most importantly, they must have an interest in the creative and design process. "Otherwise," notes Asberry, "the look will suffer, and the brand will be compromised."
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| Last Updated on Monday, 06 April 2009 14:23 |
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2012 UNIVATOR Award entry form
Has your company created an incredible fabric technology or revitalized a restaurant with a fresh, new uniform program? Have you developed ingenious business processes to help your own corporation handle the challenges of this tough economy? Did you dream up an environmentally friendly way to eliminate product waste? UniformMarket News wants to hear your story and consider you for a 2012 UNIVATOR Award.
The UNIVATOR Awards celebrate innovation in the North American uniform, image apparel, medical goods, footwear and equipment markets. For eight years, the UNIVATOR Awards have been shining a light on amazing advancements that keep this industry moving forward. They acknowledge companies, both large and small, that are forging unique paths to success.
Read more...Winners came from all market segments – law enforcement, public safety, corporate and chef apparel, and medical apparel. Many have been cited in previous years; several have not.
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