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| Button, Button, Who's Got the Button? |
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| Tuesday, 04 August 2009 09:05 | |||
 In the late 19th century, a fellow from Vienna, Austria—John Frederick Boepple—who was as bright, inventive, and dedicated as they come, came to the United States in search of what was known as "fresh water pearls." Because of European tariffs and difficulties overseas, his craft of making buttons out of multiple materials, such as horn, wood, lead, and "salt water pearls" had become an outrageous expense, and he was looking for a material less expensive. He found an abundance of it along the Mississippi River, in Muscatine, Iowa; what was to become the button capital of the world.Boepple, who was really the founder of the button industry, is well documented in books, articles, and even museums; his is indeed a remarkable story. But also from Vienna, arrived around the same time, came another young and hardworking man in the button business—John Weber. Weber, too, arrived in Muscatine, and it is more than likely—although the two men went their separate ways—that they knew one another. This is about John Weber, his family, "fresh water pearls" that are also known as clams, and the manufacture of buttons. There was an enormous abundance of clams along the river—literally mountains of shells—and that part of gathering raw materials for the buttons was called "clamming." Fresh water clams or "pearls" were 1/100th the cost of European salt water clams; hence, a fortune was to be made in the American button industry as a result. While many other firms came and went, Weber & Sons Button Company, Inc. not only still exists, but is one of the original manufacturers of buttons in this country. John Weber and his wife had 9 children, enough to run an entire factory at that time. What began as a two-story 20,000 square feet building erected in 1860, grew and grew, and is now 45,000 square feet spanning two separate dwellings with 25 employees, many of whom remain family. Muscatine is a blue-collar factory town, population 34,000, polka-dotted with churches, shopping centers, and monuments to a simpler way of life. "It's two degrees of separation," says Lynne Weber, fourth generation office manager. "If you don't know someone, the person sitting next to you does." There are still multiple factories in existence, and they are operating despite the recession. Farm country surrounds the area, but Muscatine, itself, is pure industry: Yes, in complete compliance with the Environmental Protection Agency. Boepple was an old-world craftsman who could never adapt to modern industrialization, and it ultimately proved to be his downfall. He always insisted on making buttons one at a time with a foot-pedal lathe. Weber, on the other hand, had different ideas and went to automation as quickly as he could. His firm was well underway when he died in 1934, and his son, Edward W. Weber took over. The younger Weber, with brothers who were superb machinists much like their uncles, was in charge of the company until 1963, when he died at the age of 57. Edward W.'s contribution as a second generation owner was to introduce synthetics to the button industry. From clams that ultimately became too expensive to manufacture, he went into newly developed acrylics and, with his sons and brothers, adapted the original clamshell machinery to appropriately fit the new material. What didn't adapt or couldn't be made by Barry Manufacturing that created their original machines, they invented and built, themselves. Remarkably, in one form or another, the original pearl machinery lasted until 1985, with one of them currently residing in the Smithsonian Institution. The only problem was that early acrylic buttons melted with heat. If they survived the finishing process, they then melted when a homemaker ironed a garment. Yet another source had to be found, which was up to third generation Edward Walter Weber to find. At 74, it is he (otherwise known as "Ed" or "Buster") who is currently in charge of Weber, and it is he who transitioned from acrylic buttons to polyester plastic, which is what is used today. Originally, the polyester pigment had a lead base. By the 1980s, however, lead was outlawed, and the trick became how to make a button without lead. "I can remember him bringing home buttons and putting them on a cookie sheet to bake them, or he would iron them to try them out. They smelled awful!" says daughter, Lynne. There are two basic ways to make buttons, but Weber primarily uses one over the other due to too great a volume and too little for employees to do on the one, vs. constant production at a slower but steadier pace on the other. There are also two ways to dye a button, with one being through and through (colorfast), while the other is topical, in which case the color can fade onto lighter shades of fabrics. Interestingly, volume in part determines which way a customer has to go in the dyeing process, because colorfastness demands a minimum of 260 gross or 37,440 buttons. Weber sells a great many buttons, and has huge diversity. It used to make its own metal buttons by using the plastic base and then electro-plating the outsides. Now, these buttons are outsourced, as well as those with rhinestones, cloth, and other combinations; in-house manufacturing itself is limited to the plastic material. Lynne and her sister, Susan, will eventually take the helm, although Lynne insists that Buster is simply not retiring—Ever. Having worked his way up from the bottom, Buster has the entire business and all of its processes in his head. Even as Lynne was being interviewed, not a question went by without the echo of an answer from Buster in the background. To make buttons, it takes about two weeks from the time an order is placed until the buttons come off a conveyer belt from inspection, and are placed into boxes. The buttons are made from a paste that is dyed to a specific color, a thick Karo Syrup-like goo or pigment, and plastic, all mixed in a 25 pound bucket. This is then poured into an open-ended sideways rolling solid drum that is much like a hamster wheel. The drum is spun centrifugally and the material inside is heated, hardened, then peeled off, put on a belt where it is cut into blanks, and dropped in hot water to solidify further. The pattern and holes follow, plus three days of tumbling with 3/8" tiny wooden cubes to polish the material if a shiny finish is desired. Inspection follows on the conveyer belt, and it's done. Presto! Hundreds of buttons. "Weber is strictly wholesale. We don't even have a website," emphasizes Lynne. Do they have actual button cards and pictures of their buttons? Yes. For 105 years Weber & Sons has been a company deeply committed to customer satisfaction. It has no plans to change that arrangement.
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| Last Updated on Tuesday, 04 August 2009 22:13 |
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The UNIVATOR Awards recognize innovation within the uniform industry and serve as a reminder that, even in times of economic upheaval, companies both large and small can still improve.
This current round acknowledges eight winners – some household names and some newcomers – who bucked tradition and questioned convention to develop unique uniform programs, inventive product ideas and eco-friendly innovations. The 2012 UNIVATOR Awards provide a snapshot of what's new in the industry, from tiny fiber structures that vastly improve a police officer's comfort to a multi-billion-dollar restaurant chain's complete uniform program overhaul. These forward-thinking companies have earned UNIVATOR Awards for themselves, and they've also helped revitalize the industry with their creativity.
Descriptions of each winning entry are listed below. If you didn't enter this year or were passed over, it's never too early to start thinking about next year's UNIVATOR Awards. Contact This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it for tips and advice on putting together a winning entry.
| Uniform Program Innovations: | |
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HPI Direct - Hard Rock Cafe uniform program
The Hard Rock Cafe recently embarked on an overall rebranding effort, in large part to differentiate the restaurant from the Hard Rock Hotel and Casino chain, and the restaurant executives decided that a new uniform program would be a key component of this effort. The Hard Rock Cafe wanted to create a subtly stylish look without the use of heavy logos. Sarah Phelps, project manager at HPI Direct, explains, “The Hard Rock Cafe has their logo retail shirts that they sell, but they wanted something different for the uniforms. That was their direction. Their new theme is ‘elevate,’ and they wanted the new uniform to be more about the style details and less about the logo.” HPI was not yet Hard Rock’s uniform provider, but it sketched and presented some preliminary designs with the goal of taking over the program. Initially, says Phelps, “it was all about the look. They wanted something very rock-and-roll, very dark. They wanted black and charcoal. The look was more focused on the design details.” The sketches show a zip-front dress accented with contrasting black topstitching to outline details, up-close shots of antique nickel rivet buttons, and sparks of fiery red, jolting each piece to life.
HPI also collaborated with Hard Rock to create a unique graphic for the restaurant chain. Phelps says, “There’s a tattoo graphic that the hotels use, and they wanted something different for the restaurant. We developed a Celtic heart design. It’s more of a tribal look instead of a tattoo look to differentiate the Hard Rock Cafe from the hotels.” Once the Hard Rock Cafe approved sample garments, HPI began to design a wear-testing program, which was implemented in mid-January. Employees in the Los Angeles, Orlando, Berlin, and Brussels Hard Rock locations will wear the sample uniforms and provide their feedback to HPI. A wear-testing guide provides instructions for the test and encourages employees to “Have fun mixing it up” and to show their “personal style and not be restricted to the same outfit every day.” Why we like it... To cater to the Hard Rock Cafe’s unique style and attitude, HPI Direct put together a look first and worked out the details later. HPI combined stock and custom pieces and incorporated a Celtic heart graphic that gives the Hard Rock Cafe a sense of individuality while still respecting the restaurant’s desire to keep its uniforms light on the logos. The result is a uniform program that is fashion-forward, completely functional and exactly what the client ordered. |
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Fourmy (A Division of Cintas) - McDonald's Canada uniform program
The new uniform program was designed by Canadian division of Cintas Corp., Fourmy. McDonald’s Canada has been a client of Fourmy since 1978, turning to the luxury brand often to meet the demands of its uniform program, which, according to Fourmy Design Manager Kass Graham, is “constantly evolving.” Yet the current transformation is particularly significant, as it coincides with the Destination 2012 renovation program, far and away the largest renovation in the 44-year history of McDonald’s Canada. The new crew collection consists of a trendy black color palette and slim silhouettes. One of the collection’s key pieces is the wedge polo, an upscale adaptation of the traditional polo featuring narrow wedges of color that can be added, changed or removed. This allows employees to change their colors based on position, preference or restaurant theme. Graham explains, “Restaurants can choose how they would like to handle employees’ color schemes, making each restaurant unique.” Why we like it... When McDonald’s Canada began its $1 billion makeover, it recognized the importance of an updated uniform program. Its trusted partner, Fourmy, delivered a program that helps the chain present a sophisticated look, aligns with the company’s green initiative and helps give employees a sense of freedom and personal style. |
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Clipper Corporation - Mimi's Café uniform program
Mimi’s Café is a fast-casual national restaurant chain with a French twist. The exterior is reminiscent of a quaint French country home, and the interior is inviting, featuring stained wood and exposed brick. From breakfast through dinner, guests enjoy the rich, rustic flavors of France as well as healthy, family-friendly fare and warm service. The French theme carries throughout the restaurant but, up until recently, stopped short at the restaurant’s uniform program. Mimi’s Café was using a variety of suppliers, each contributing to a small part of the overall uniform picture. Not only was the uniform look lacking cohesion, the program was difficult for the chain to manage. Mimi’s had embarked on an all-encompassing rebranding effort and, in the process, found that off-the-shelf apparel and accessories didn’t quite meet its needs. Mimi’s turned to Clipper Corp., whom it already relied upon for smallwares needs, to develop a customized solution. Briana Earl, account executive at Clipper Corp., explains, “Mimi’s was kind of a unique situation for us in that they didn’t have a real uniform spin.” Clipper created custom pieces for the chain, including a classic black bistro apron with a wide, chic waistband as well as a tie printed with custom artwork. Clipper included crisp button-downs and flattering blouses for management, available in ten colors. The choice of colors, explains Earl, “allows the managers to have an individual style.” Back-of-the-house employees were outfitted in sophisticated cook shirts, customized chef coats and cheeky houndstooth chef pants. Clipper Corp. also implemented an online ordering system that enables stores to log in and purchase uniforms. This system allows Mimi’s Café to effectively and efficiently manage its uniform program. Why we like it... Clipper Corp. was able to put together a uniform program using a combination of off-the-shelf, classic pieces and custom pieces to create an effortlessly stylish look with positively French flair. The online ordering system makes for a “hands-off uniform program that sort of runs itself,” says Earl. C’est si bon! |
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Clipper Corporation - Chinese Gourmet Express uniform program
“We don’t want to look like everyone else in the food court,” says Sam Sim, owner of Chinese Gourmet Express. This nationwide chain of quick-service Chinese food restaurants is dedicated to making great, fresh food at an affordable price. Sim and his wife, Monica, use authentic Chinese recipes inspired by provinces throughout China, and patrons appreciate the authenticity of the food – a rarity in the mall food court. While the vibrant, delicious food at Chinese Gourmet Express certainly stood out in a sea of food court fare, the employees’ uniforms were falling flat. Their standard-issue, off-the-shelf polos wrinkled easily, faded and looked unflattering, especially on female employees. Clipper Corp. came to the rescue, revitalizing the uniform look with high-tech performance polos, which, as Earl of Clipper Corp. puts it, “last twice as long and look ten times better!” Unisex sizes were replaced by flattering, gender-specific cuts. Managers were assigned unique colors, helping contribute to this quick-service restaurant’s efficiency and professional appearance. Clipper Corp. also included a hat in the program to give employees an extra splash of style. Why we like it... Clipper Corp. made a few key changes to the uniform for Chinese Gourmet Express, but these small changes had a significant impact on the company’s overall image. Clipper Corp. helped a small, family-owned chain compete with huge fast-food companies, a feat that’s certainly worthy of recognition. |
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Product Innovations: |
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Medelita - Dental Lab Coat For many people, trips to the dentist are unpleasant enough. Between the scraping, drilling, poking and prodding, dental appointments can start to feel like a violation of personal space. Now imagine, on top of it, the sleeve of the dentist’s lab coat ending up in the patient’s mouth each time he reaches in for a pass of the scraper or that said sleeve is covered in stains. Clearly dentists have a need for a special type of lab coat, but up until recently, nothing of the sort existed. Medelita sought to change that with its dental lab coats, the Elsie G. for women and the Fauchard for men. Medelita is well known for its hand-sewn medical lab coats, which are fully loaded with premium features and receive rave reviews for their luxurious feel and performance. Yet when Medelita attended a recent annual meeting of the California Dental Association in San Francisco, the rave reviews were mixed with pleas for something different. Joe Francisco, CEO of Medelita, explains, “The dentists were just loving our coats. But they said, ‘You know what? Nobody in this entire industry makes anything that we need. All the lab coats have these open cuffs, they don’t button to the neck, and they don’t give me full closure.’” Medelita got right to work creating the Elsie G. and the Fauchard, named after Elsie Gerlach, a pioneer in the field of pediatric dentistry, and Pierre Fauchard, who is often referred to as the father of modern dentistry. The most notable feature of these coats is the knit cuffs, which keep sleeves out of patients’ mouths. They are made from 100 percent cotton treated with DuPont Advanced Dual Action Teflon, which repels the stains and fluids that are part and parcel of dental work. The ergonomic design, says Francisco, “allows you to lean forward and perform procedures on a patient’s mouth without it pulling.” Why we like it... Medelita combined the best-loved features of its medical lab coats with the features most requested by dental professionals. The result is a truly elegant lab coat that is sure to impress dentists on both an aesthetic and technical level. |
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Elbeco - V1 TexTrop External Vest Carrier Police work is quite complex. Police officers are expected to be physically capable as well as quick-thinking and psychologically adept. They must appear authoritative to those who challenge the law, yet non-threatening to the innocent people whom they protect. Those who outfit police officers take these unique challenges into account when designing uniform apparel, balancing performance with professional appearance. So when ballistic vests threatened to compromise this delicate balance, Elbeco created the V1 TexTrop External Vest Carrier. Ballistic vests are, without a doubt, a necessity for law enforcement officers. Yet for some departments, the look of a ballistic vest worn over a uniform shirt can be overly tactical and somewhat threatening to members of the community. In addition, wearing a ballistic vest under a uniform shirt can feel hot and uncomfortable. Elbeco presented a completely unique spin on the vest carrier with the V1. Whereas other carriers offer a tactical, SWAT team-type look, the V1 is designed to blend in seamlessly with an officer’s uniform shirt and is available in most standard uniform shirt colors. When designing the V1, Elbeco consulted extensively with law enforcement officers and chiefs of police, soliciting their input and feedback throughout the process. J.D. Devine, director of sales and business development for Elbeco, explains the concerns that officers expressed: “First and foremost, everyone involved wanted to be certain that officer safety was not compromised in any way. The officers wanted assurance from their protective vest manufacturers that our product would not invalidate any warranty claims.” Elbeco was able to deliver this assurance; all major vest manufacturers provided confirmation that the V1 does not invalidate warranty claims. It maintains the integrity of the strength of the vest while adding more comfortable, unobtrusive design. Why we like it... When it comes to police uniforms, officer safety should always come first. Elbeco’s V1 TexTrop External Vest Carrier allows all officers to wear a ballistic vest comfortably and discreetly, helping keep them safe without creating an overly tactical look. When officers are able to maintain their professional appearance without compromising their safety, they’re more likely to wear their protective gear and wear it properly. |
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| Eco-friendly Product Innovations: | |
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Perfection Uniforms - Bionic Garment Construction Just how technologically advanced can one police uniform be? Perfection Uniforms is on a mission to find out. The perpetual UNIVATOR award winner and truly perfection-driven uniform manufacturer is raising the bar and lowering temperatures with its new Bionic Garment Construction technology. The new technology improves upon Perfection’s first generation of construction technology, Ergonomic Garment Construction. This technology swapped seams for hidden gussets in the high-stress underarm and crotch areas, allowing for maximum freedom of movement and eliminating the pulling, tearing and stress that can occur along seams and cause the untimely demise of a garment. Bionic Garment Construction takes these gussets and raises them an added element of comfort in the form of ThermoCool, a natural thermo-regulation fiber technology. ThermoCool uses a combination of hollow-core fibers and fibers featuring a multi-channel surface. The multi-channel surface allows moisture to evaporate. Hollow fibers allow air to circulate and provide greater energy for the evaporation process. The hollow areas also exhibit thermo-buffering properties, protecting the skin from sudden temperature changes and helping to maintain consistent comfort. Because ThermoCool’s advantage is its unique fiber structure, it does not rely on chemical treatments, and its thermo-regulating properties will last throughout the life of the garment. Perfection Uniforms wanted to incorporate ThermoCool technology into its StratusSeries line of high-performance poly/rayon blend uniforms but didn’t want to pass along a higher cost to distributors and end users. Miranda Brock, marketing manager at Perfection, explains, “We could have made the entire garment with ThermoCool, but based on research and from a price standpoint, it makes sense for it to be in the gussets, which correspond to areas of the body that would most benefit from temperature regulation.” Why we like it... Perfection Uniforms saw a way to improve upon its already impressive Ergonomic Garment Construction with the new Bionic Garment Construction and incorporated the ThermoCool technology into the areas that need it most. The result is a high-performing yet affordable line of uniforms and a sixth consecutive UNIVATOR award for Perfection Uniforms. |
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Century Place - Century Place Eco-Friendly Collection
Carter became inspired to create an eco-friendly line of T-shirts and polos for Century Place, but at the time, in 2008, the readily available options weren’t as green as he would have liked. “There were organic options or sustainable products like bamboo, but it requires a lot of energy to produce these things and a lot of resources. I felt that it wasn’t truly green,” he says. He chose to use polyester made from 100 percent post-consumer recycled PET containers, like the plastic bottles and food containers that pervade everyday life. Each shirt keeps the equivalent of about 32 water bottles out of landfills. Because there wasn’t yet an established supply chain for what he wanted to produce, he created his own. He assessed the products and services of various suppliers until he achieved a 100 percent recycled shirt with a cotton-type soft hand and durable quality. He chose not to raise prices and says that the response from customers has been “slow but steady.” Customers hadn’t asked for an eco-friendly product, but the quality, feel and price point are helping them cozy up to the idea. “If the business owner doesn’t offer [eco-friendly products], the consumer won’t ask for it. The business owners have to take the initiative and make the decision to move forward and offer it. It has to start with the suppliers,” says Carter. Since introducing the eco-friendly line in January 2010, Century Place has seen significant growth, and although Carter anticipates further growth in 2012, it’s his passion for the environment that now truly motivates him. He says, “This is more than just another line for me. I really believe in this. It’s the first time I’ve been able to offer something that truly helps our environment. The more we do, the more we can make a difference.” Why we like it... With so many companies using eco-friendly claims as mere selling points, it’s refreshing to see a company with a true dedication to the environment. Century Place’s story also serves as inspiration to other companies looking to clean up their act. |
2012 UNIVATOR Award entry form
Has your company created an incredible fabric technology or revitalized a restaurant with a fresh, new uniform program? Have you developed ingenious business processes to help your own corporation handle the challenges of this tough economy? Did you dream up an environmentally friendly way to eliminate product waste? UniformMarket News wants to hear your story and consider you for a 2012 UNIVATOR Award.
The UNIVATOR Awards celebrate innovation in the North American uniform, image apparel, medical goods, footwear and equipment markets. For eight years, the UNIVATOR Awards have been shining a light on amazing advancements that keep this industry moving forward. They acknowledge companies, both large and small, that are forging unique paths to success.
Read more...
