WALL STREET JOURNAL - When the James Hotel opens its doors this fall in SoHo, on the corner of Thompson and Grand, many things will be shiny and new. But some of the staff will look like they have waited years for customers to arrive. British menswear designer Andrew Buckler created uniforms influenced by Charles Dickens for the front of house staff.

Researching classic hotel garb, Mr. Buckler found that early uniforms incorporated top hats, tails and militaristic elements. "I didn't want that crispness," Mr. Buckler says. "So I turned to 'Oliver Twist' and 'Gangs of New York.' Those clothes were more worn-in."

His designs for the James include a deep espresso sheepskin winter coat, ecru shirts, gray sweaters, navy slim skirts and trousers in speckled wools and organic cottons. Despite the ostensible shabby chic, the uniforms are secretly extremely durable, and constructed to withstand frequent dry cleanings.

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