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Deb Webster Blog
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Products
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Written by Debra Hindlemann Webster
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Tuesday, 02 September 2008 00:00 |
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For the last 40+ years, the internationally recognized Pantone Matching System (PMS) is what has laid out choices of color for all visual aspects of our world: Cars and fabrics, cosmetics and hair care, house paints and carpeting, china and crockery, plastics and appliances, crayons and computer design graphics, and more. Colorwise, today's finished products are determined by Pantone, Inc., and interestingly, not the other way around. Home Depot orange, UPS brown, Tiffany blue, Barbie pink: It is the work of genius.
There are shades of light and dark by adding black and white; tints of colors such as azure, navy, royal, or teal blues; and the various hues such as basic red, blue, yellow, orange, brown, and so forth. There are metallics, shineys, and flats or bisques—no different than lame's, satins, and cottons or woolens.
Every one of the hundreds of Pantone colors is different, and yet similarities abound. Colors can appear with an entirely different presentation on fabric than on a paper calling card or the sign painted on a company truck. Sometimes, it's very difficult to convince a customer that the color he sees in a magazine may be closely duplicated but not exactly, when attempting to transfer ink to cloth, or a printed logo to embroidery thread. Substances grab dyes differently. PMS colors help us as manufacturers and sellers of uniforms to convince our shoppers that there is an official bottom line for color.
Based in Carlstadt, New Jersey, Pantone is run by Lawrence Herbert and his daughter, Lisa. Herbert, whose great love is color, began working for the printing company in 1956, hoping to become a physician one day, while printing color cards for cosmetic companies in the meantime. However, with his backgrounds in chemistry and biology, he began to perfect various recipes for colors with scientific precision, and eventually expanded his knowledge to deal with the full spectrum. Ultimately, he bought the printing operations portion of the company, which he finally incorporated into his own firm in 1963.
Until that time, every printer had his own palette of colors, but none was synchronized with another; even within the same printing house, the colors were often skewed or off-tone from one run to the next. What Herbert did was profound: He standardized color. He gave every available shade, tint, and hue a different number and recipe (and sometimes a name) that cannot be varied. He went to 21 printing companies with his recipes, hoping to convince them that this kind of color regulation would be an asset. They went for it, and the rest, as they say, is "his-story."
Today, there are approximately 1,800 different blends from which one can choose. When a company wants a particular shade that isn't a part of the Pantone system, then Pantone will invent it. If it is a patented, corporate color, then only that particular company has access to it. If it is less protected, then there is public access.
New colors are constantly being created. In fact, many industries circle the Pantone crystal ball as early as 18 months in advance in order to find out what the color wizards are up to. In so doing, there is a cooperative and coordinate multi-industry effort to utilize the latest Pantone offerings: Will it be a brown fall, or a pink spring, a black and red winter, a marigold summer? If you think fashion or automobile manufacturers know, think again. It is Pantone. The environmentalists did not come up with kiwi and lime green for last season's spring shirts. Nope. It was Pantone.
When you open your latest catalogues, or design your new garments for the season, you are specking out the available PMS colors that were developed months in advance. If you show the current items from your favorite vendor, whether it be seasonal color changes, or newly mixed shades, it's all from the Pantone color spectrum. Should you call a thread manufacturer or fabric converter, an embroiderer or screen printer, a button or zipper distributor, you are utilizing Pantone.
To the extent that the uniform industry is more conservative than some, one might think that fewer colors would be used. On the other hand, because uniforms now include such an enormous array of choices, this is less and less the case. What has to be called "gigglebox fun," is that Pantone also delights in pairing colors, thereby putting particular color combinations in the spotlight as readily as it does single tints and shades: Navy and pink; black and khaki; grey and red—such mixes are whole units unto themselves.
Sets of the PMS color cards—not unlike the early cosmetic cards that Mr. Lawrence first created—are not only available as basic all-purpose chips, but there are card sets used solely for the textile industry, as well. The only problem with selling a customer off of these cards is that there is usually a 3,000-5,000 yard minimum to have fabric custom dyed. Going offshore for a lower minimum, even without customs and freight, is not a lot less.
The next time your customer comes in with a bottle of suntan lotion and tells you that he wants you to match the lettering on the side of the bottle to a razzle dazzle fabric with a keen sheen, as a must for his singing group's new uniform shirts, think PMS. Use it with him, and then forward the color number to your supplier, who also should have the cards. Hopefully, this will save you hours and hours of researching and postage for sample swatches, and earn you a handsome account at the same time.
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Debra Hindlemann Webster is the owner of Custom Uniform Company, a manufacturer of high-quality, American-made custom uniforms. The company has been serving individuals, groups, theme parks, corporations, offices, military, hospitality, entertainment centers, and many other businesses with unique custom apparel for more than 70 years.
Visit www.CustomUniformCompany.com or email them at
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Uniforms
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Written by By Debra Hindlemann Webster
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Friday, 28 May 2010 08:43 |
Originally, uniforms were meant to be worn by a single class of people: Healthy, youthful-to-middle-aged men. They were homogenous, built pretty much the same, and lived about 46 years.
Depending on the service required, a uniform was designed for a particular duty and rank. A sailor wore a different outfit than an infantry man; an employee wore a different outfit than the boss. The old joke is that uniforms used to be made in two sizes: Too big and too small. There were stock sizes, little custom tailoring or adjustability, and no stretch fabrics as everything was made from natural fibers and standard designs.
The word uniform meant "one shape," as it does today. Uniform apparel was about identity and task. It also served as a protection: Nothing more. It was not a fashion statement; nor was it meant for comfort. It was utilitarian, and it was worn with great pride. It was one of the aspects of the profession that a man valued most--the apparel that went with the job.
It didn't matter whether a uniform was meant for land or sea, town or country. Many of the uniforms were made by kinfolk, local seamstresses, tailors, undertakers, or the leather tanner. For the military, there were groups of people who labored for this purpose.
It wasn't until later that women had uniforms, and they were different. First of all, women were built differently; also, they did different things. Usually classified as domestics, working women generally wore uniforms to indicate a kitchen, hospital, restaurant, or chores done in the home.
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People
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Written by Debra Hindlemann Webster
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Tuesday, 04 August 2009 09:05 |
In the late 19th century, a fellow from Vienna, Austria—John Frederick Boepple—who was as bright, inventive, and dedicated as they come, came to the United States in search of what was known as "fresh water pearls." Because of European tariffs and difficulties overseas, his craft of making buttons out of multiple materials, such as horn, wood, lead, and "salt water pearls" had become an outrageous expense, and he was looking for a material less expensive. He found an abundance of it along the Mississippi River, in Muscatine, Iowa; what was to become the button capital of the world.
Boepple, who was really the founder of the button industry, is well documented in books, articles, and even museums; his is indeed a remarkable story. But also from Vienna, arrived around the same time, came another young and hardworking man in the button business—John Weber. Weber, too, arrived in Muscatine, and it is more than likely—although the two men went their separate ways—that they knew one another.
This is about John Weber, his family, "fresh water pearls" that are also known as clams, and the manufacture of buttons. There was an enormous abundance of clams along the river—literally mountains of shells—and that part of gathering raw materials for the buttons was called "clamming." Fresh water clams or "pearls" were 1/100th the cost of European salt water clams; hence, a fortune was to be made in the American button industry as a result. While many other firms came and went, Weber & Sons Button Company, Inc. not only still exists, but is one of the original manufacturers of buttons in this country.
John Weber and his wife had 9 children, enough to run an entire factory at that time. What began as a two-story 20,000 square feet building erected in 1860, grew and grew, and is now 45,000 square feet spanning two separate dwellings with 25 employees, many of whom remain family. Muscatine is a blue-collar factory town, population 34,000, polka-dotted with churches, shopping centers, and monuments to a simpler way of life. "It's two degrees of separation," says Lynne Weber, fourth generation office manager. "If you don't know someone, the person sitting next to you does." There are still multiple factories in existence, and they are operating despite the recession. Farm country surrounds the area, but Muscatine, itself, is pure industry: Yes, in complete compliance with the Environmental Protection Agency.
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Last Updated on Tuesday, 04 August 2009 22:13 |
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Uniforms
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Written by Debra Hindlemann Webster
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Monday, 02 November 2009 09:00 |
Recently, I saw the 2009 Carnival in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil—a yearly event that is presented to the public. In just two days, over 120,000 performers filled the streets for this fabulous presentation. There were huge varieties of apparel, but with hundreds of individuals at a time wearing the exact same thing—legions of people moving to the rhythm of the music. They adorned floats, the streets, and the city, in an unprecedented salute to the samba. Yet, aside from the bright colors and the incredibly varied fabrications, it was no different than a military parade. I thought to myself, are these uniforms or costumes? What's the difference between the two? Is it the material, the quantity, the purpose, the design? Is it that one is worn by choice and another by assignment? Perhaps it is the length of time that an outfit is worn. What makes one a costume and the other a uniform?
At Disneyland—the closest the Americans could come to the Brazilian pageant—there are both costumes and uniforms. The special characters such as the Goofies or the Snow Whites (yes, there are many of each, as it's a big park and different people wear the ensembles on various days at rotating times and in different sizes) are made in the Costume Shop—marvelous creations with or without giant feathers (Big Birds) or shapes (the Seven Dwarfs) and masks (Captain Hooks). The colorful and uniquely designed shirts and pants for the waiters and waitresses of Tomorrow Land, or Epcot, or the dresses worn by the Dance Hall girls in the saloon at Frontier Land, are kept in the Costume Warehouse—decorative items by the bushel, especially designed with fabrics solely woven and dyed for Disney. But these are referred to as uniforms, not costumes. Is it the quantity? Is it that costumes are saved for the proper nouns, such as the Prince Charmings or Belles, but uniforms are reserved for this usher or that waitress, worn by the hundreds?
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Last Updated on Monday, 02 November 2009 10:29 |
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People
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Written by Debra Hindlemann Webster
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Thursday, 27 August 2009 13:46 |
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Do you ever wonder what certain phrases mean? Do you ever use certain words or terms without having a clue regarding origin or meaning? Here's one for you: "Dressed to the nines." We use it more with the upper crust than the lower, and maybe more with women than men. But the term itself has been around for a few hundred years; perhaps longer than that. It's been used with the height of couture fashion, covering designs for daytime and evening wear; it's been used to describe the average Joe who is one step above; and it's been used with top-notch uniforms.
In truth, no one knows where "dressed to the nines" comes from, but there are numerous possible origins: Some say it has to do with the nine muses from Greek mythology and the arts—the best that aesthetics had to offer in every genre: Some say it refers to the nine Worthies, who are outstanding heroes from both literature and history—King Arthur, David, Joshua, and the like. The number nine is the last and highest of the single digits, and its square root is the mystical number three; nine has always been regarded as magic.
There is 18th century poetry from Scotland, with Robert Byrnes waxing over nature as being painted beautifully to the nines. There is the possibility of the medieval phrase, "dressed to thine eyne," referring to one's eyes being the loveliest ever—with the words gradually evolving to "the nines." In 18th century England, poet William Hamilton referred to the nines—how they contented him. In 14th century France, John de Mandeville wrote that war without peace would always be to the ninth degree if his king were not to reform.
"Dressed to the nines" simply means that one's fashion statement is tip-top. For the uniform industry, we are talking about an identity that puts our best feet forward, that advertises us as par excellence, that outwardly displays the kinds of qualities that we apply to our companies inwardly, with our entire collective focus as a team.
When it comes to apparel, some say that it refers to the "whole nine yards," which at one time was the amount of fabric used to make up a suit for an elegant gentleman or, imagine a single elegant shirt! (Figure narrow, 36" wide goods, or even the most foppish 18th century dandy would drown in ruffles and lace at this quantity if it were a 45" or 60" fabric width). |
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Last Updated on Tuesday, 01 September 2009 08:49 |
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Deb Webster
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Written by Deb Webster
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Sunday, 08 February 2009 19:15 |
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"So many things have changed," Dave Hindlemann reflects. "It used to be a handshake was a man's word. Now, it's lawyers and contracts – cut and dried. The personal element is missing." (“Made to Measure Magazine," Spring/Summer, 1997).
If you've been talking with your colleagues lately, or even if you've been involved personally, you've probably noticed that our society has changed when it comes to the way in which it does business. Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac aside, credit crunch and housing markets, too, the uniform industry has been hit with the same kinds of changes in ethical behavior—not only from customers, but from our own small family of apparel manufacturers and suppliers. More and more, companies are refusing to lend credit, expecting prompt payments with 50% down and balance prepaid before delivery. More and more customers find themselves short and not wanting to pay their bills, no matter how loyal they've been in the past. Return authorizations are being required from corporations that heretofore accepted merchandise sent back as a matter of courtesy: Good will is no longer the name of the game. One or two bad customers can shift more friendly relaxed business policies away from good will, towards harsh, stiff penalties and beyond. |
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Last Updated on Sunday, 08 February 2009 19:23 |
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Companies
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Written by Deb Webster
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Sunday, 08 February 2009 20:39 |
In 1954, 46- year-old William Lowney had an idea that possessed him. It began in his four-car Philadelphia garage as he and his wife, Annette, patented a gizmo called a boot band. This little braided band, with its splash of olive drab color, fit around the tops of military boots and kept pants tucked tightly inside the footwear; they at once "gripped" the top of the boot but "flexed" when an individual stepped: Hence, the Grip-Flex Corporation was born. Lowney initially began his journey of selling his product from town to town along the eastern seaboard, potential customer to potential customer, until his gadget took hold. And indeed it did. From there, it was a small step to add the product of shoulder cords, each cord being handmade, even today. Shoulder cords inspired citation cords, shoulder knots, epaulettes, and the selling of braid, itself—flat, soutache, edge cord, and the rounded tubular. Lowney focused on what he felt were basic stock colors (custom dyed colors became available upon request) as he broadened his clientele to include schools and marching bands, hotels and theatres, police, postal, and security uniforms. The creation of the Lowney braid business was on its way. Twenty-year old son George abandoned his job in a grocery store and eventually took over the firm, maintaining his father's original goals and standards while growing the business at the same time. Moving out of the garage, Grip-Flex currently boasts 15,000 square feet of braiding machines and inventory, as well as over 40 employees who at once do the hands-on work, and assist with customer service in the front offices. It is one of two braid houses that remain in the United States today. |
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Last Updated on Saturday, 14 February 2009 14:06 |
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Companies
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Written by Debra Hindlemann Webster
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Monday, 05 October 2009 09:40 |
Virginia, 1655, is the earliest trace of William Hardwick who emigrated from England. His family settled in various parts of the South and, generation after generation, produced children who were consistently committed to community welfare, industry, education, and values that revolved around the Masons and the Methodist church. Eventually locating in Cleveland, Tennessee, C.L. Hardwick was the great great grandson of the original Hardwick, and it was he who took it upon himself to found a woolen mill in 1880.
Why? No one seems to know. The best guess is that as the country began to come of age and transportation allowed for access to more store-bought items, Hardwick decided to utilize his retailing experience along with his knowledge of farming. He was working by the age of 15, went into the retail business at 19, lost the business and paid back his debts out of his own pocket, and began again in mercantile at age 30. He also bought a farm, which he worked simultaneously, and it's possible that his livestock afforded him more potential than imported shelf items which could by then be purchased elsewhere.
Cleveland then was a town of about 5,000 people, in the midst of farm country. Today, it boasts a community of about 40,000-50,000, the size of a large university. It has remained small, maintains its basic set of American values, and caters to the folks who live and work there. There is one mall, no skyscrapers, and Sunday church is an important aspect of life.
Many of Hardwick's 400+ employees as well as its CEO's are family to one another, and have been serving the company for multiple generations. Nancy Deakins, who heads up advertising, and Tommy Hopper as president, are descendants of the Hardwick family. Jim Park, whose uncle was sales manager, is the vice president of sales today. One of the aspects about the plant is that it is all on one story, and everybody knows and sees everyone else. "If a customer needs something special," notes Park, "I can just walk out onto the floor, talk to a supervisor, and put the item into work."
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Last Updated on Tuesday, 06 October 2009 10:32 |
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People
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Written by Debra Hindlemann Webster
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Monday, 04 May 2009 08:58 |
"I like to be part of a team," says Karen Donavon. "I don't want to do it all on my own," The feisty 67 year-old takes time from her job to perch on a tall stool, and tells what it's like to be a part of "the back of the house." The apparel business relies on thousands and thousands of people like Karen. Some do one or two tasks; others are multiply trained and find themselves to be rarer than hen's teeth in an industry that treasures them.
Gary Schultz, president of Edwards Garment Company, offered Karen a job on the spot when he met her, and asked her if she wanted to move to Kalamazoo. "I've got only three like you, and one is about to leave!" he wailed. Jest or no, the longtime multi-taskers are hard to find.
Whether larger corporations like Edwards, small manufacturers, or distributors, all of us need the folks who are the backbone of our industry. The more talented they are, the more quickly they rise to the top. But there are also those whose "top" is about doing their jobs well, no matter how great or how small. Karen is the perfect example.
She was raised on a 160 acre farm in Illinois, and learned from day one how important it was to do her work well; survival depended on it. She learned the value of producing something that benefitted her own family, and helped others at the same time. "Uniforms are the same as my Daddy's crops, or Mommy's grapevine in her garden," Karen recalls. "When I work, I feel important because I know that I'm helping to make clothing that makes people feel proud. I know that while I'm earning a salary and keeping busy, others are going to be looking mighty nice in the special outfits we do for them. What could be a better job?"
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Last Updated on Tuesday, 05 May 2009 08:15 |
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Companies
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Written by Debra Hindlemann Webster
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Monday, 02 March 2009 14:35 |
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Winnipeg, Manitoba, is a major hub of clothing manufacturing in Canada. It is here that so many arrived from Eastern Europe in the early 20th century, used their tailoring skills as their primary occupation, built fulfilling lives for themselves, and created an enormously successful industry. Even as manufacturing has become an offshore endeavor for so many companies elsewhere, this city remains a strong and surviving force in the North American garment trade.
One success story is JMJ/Ingenuity, celebrating 75 years in business with multiple generations of family ownership. 34 year old Morris Shenkarow heads this firm that fills over a city block of manufacturing space, and is capable of running 24 hour per day alternating shifts when necessary. He succeeds his father, Marvin, who created a joint venture between Morris' maternal and paternal grandfathers, each of whom had their own distinct companies.
Founded by Morris Neaman in 1933, the Sterling Cloak Co. Ltd. was originally a producer of ladies' overcoats and sportswear, until it was merged with S. Stall & Sons in 1978, and became the Sterling Stall group. This partnership produced a wide range of ladies' clothing, adding leather, down coats, and suits to the already successful lines of the original Sterling Cloak.' From there, the company became JMJ Fashions, as it continued to expand and create private-label programs for Canadian retailers.
In 1995, always capable of changing with the times, JMJ introduced the Ingenuity line of washable, crease resistant women's tailored sportswear. It was an enormous success and today, Ingenuity is sold all over Canada, the United States, and in Mexico City.
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Last Updated on Wednesday, 25 March 2009 14:23 |
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